Key takeaways
- Remove everything from the garage, then clean off oil and dirt
- Grinding opens the concrete so the coating can grip
- Cracks and pits are repaired before any coating
- A moisture check tells you if a primer is needed
Empty and clean
Clear the garage of vehicles, shelves and boxes. Sweep and scrape off loose debris, and mark oil stains so they can be treated. Spills that soaked in need degreasing or a poultice, because oil left in the concrete can stop a coating from bonding.
Check the slab for old paint or sealer. A simple water-drop test helps: if water beads, there is a sealer on the surface that must be ground off.
Grind, repair and vacuum
Diamond grinding removes the weak top layer and gives the surface a texture like fine sandpaper. It also levels small high spots and strips old coatings. A grinder with a vacuum keeps dust down.
Cracks, pits and spalled edges are filled with repair material, then ground flush. Larger or moving cracks may need flexible fillers, and we explain which is which.
Test before you coat
Moisture rising through the slab is one of the biggest causes of peeling. A quick plastic-sheet test hints at it, and calcium chloride or humidity probes give numbers.
If the slab is damp, a moisture-mitigating primer or more drying time may be needed. It is much cheaper to learn that before the coating goes on.
Related services
Quick answers
Can I prep the garage floor myself?
Light cleaning, yes. Grinding takes the right machines and dust control, which is why most coatings start with professional prep.
How long does prep take?
Many garage floors take a day for grinding and repair, but it depends on size and condition.
Ready to talk it through? Get a free estimate or call 615-431-3789.